Approximate Border Location
Wait Times
30-90 min immigration + 1-2 hr ferry delays
Operating Hours
Daily: departure from Suriname side 10:00-10:30 AM (check-in from 07:30)
Crossing Types
Passenger and vehicle ferry (Canawaima Ferry)
Border Type
River (Corentyne)
Peak Times
Mornings (tourists & business)
Daily Crossings
1 official round-trip
Currency Exchange
SRD, GYD, USD
Safety Information
Medium risk: petty theft at terminals, avoid night travel, generally stable
Languages Spoken
Dutch, Sranan Tongo, English
Connectivity Options
Minibuses and taxis to Paramaribo (~4 h) or Georgetown (~5 h); Digicel mobile coverage
Accessibility Features
Limited wheelchair ramps on ferry; basic terminal facilities
About South Drain & Moleson Creek
South Drain – Moleson Creek: Guyana to Suriname by Backland Ferry
Deep in Guyana’s remote southwest corner, one old ferry across the wide Courantyne River remains the only legal overland connection to Suriname. Travelers simply call it the South Drain–Moleson Creek crossing or the backland ferry. If you want to stay legal and keep your feet dry, this is the route; no bridge and no private boats allowed for foreigners.
A Border Born from Colonial Deals
The river became the official line when Britain and the Netherlands finally settled the Guianas in the late 1800s. For most of the 20th century only cattle barges and the occasional smuggler used it. Regular passenger service only started in 2009 with the Canawaima ferry, and it still feels like a temporary fix someone forgot to upgrade.
Before Crossing
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Schedule Nobody Fully Trusts
Official times say the boat leaves Moleson Creek (Guyana) at 11:00 and returns from South Drain (Suriname) between 13:00 and 14:00. In reality it leaves when the captain and the tide agree. Arrive at least one hour early for immigration. Cancellations happen without warning in heavy rain (May–August) or when the river is too low (September–November). Check the Canawaima Ferry Service Facebook page the day before; it’s the only reliable source.
Guyana → Suriname Step by Step
Take a minibus to the Moleson Creek stelling. Clear Guyanese immigration in the little blue building; officers are relaxed but slow. Buy your ticket (about US$15), board with your bags, and sit in the heat for thirty to forty-five minutes. At South Drain you clear Surinamese immigration in a wooden shack before you even step off the boat. Most nationalities get 90 days visa-free; yellow-fever card is checked more often than at Georgetown airport.
Suriname → Guyana
Same process in reverse. Guyanese immigration sometimes asks for proof of onward travel or US$300 cash, but they usually wave Western passports through without fuss.
Getting Away from the Docks
Moleson Creek side: minibuses to Georgetown (4–5 hours, GYD 6000–8000) leave when full. South Drain side: shared taxis to Paramaribo quote US$80–100 at the dock; the real price is US$25–30 per seat. Walk 200 m to the main road or pre-book through your hostel the night before and pay half.
Scams and Hassles (Almost None)
Actual scams are rare; the place is too isolated. The only consistent rip-off is the taxi cartel on the Surinamese side. Everything else is just heat, mosquitoes, and island-time bureaucracy.
What to Bring
Exact cash (USD or Guyanese dollars), food, water, rain jacket, strong insect repellent, and plenty of patience. No ATMs, no decent shops, and almost no phone signal for miles.
Weather and Best Season
November to April is dry and easiest. May to August can flood the access road and cancel the ferry for days. September to November the river sometimes gets too shallow.
Final Word
Hot, slow, and gloriously forgotten by the modern world. If you want a border that still feels like a real adventure, this is it. Just don’t plan anything tight the same day.
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