The frontier between Costa Rica and Nicaragua is marked by a significant shift in landscape and atmosphere. You leave behind the lush, cultivated national parks of Costa Rica and enter the more rugged, volcanic scenery of Nicaragua. The vast majority of travelers use the land crossing at Peñas Blancas on the Pan-American Highway. This crossing is notoriously busy and can feel chaotic, with long lines of cargo trucks, buses, and travelers all converging at one point. It’s wise to be prepared for lines and to budget several hours for the entire process, especially during peak travel times. A second, much less-traveled option is the river route connecting Los Chiles in Costa Rica with San Carlos in Nicaragua via the Río Frío, an adventure for those with more time.
A key piece of history defining this border is the San Juan River (Río San Juan), which has been a source of territorial disputes for over 150 years, primarily over navigation rights. This long-standing issue adds a layer of political context to the natural boundary. When crossing at Peñas Blancas, the contrast between the two nations becomes immediately apparent, not just in the landscape but in the general pace and feel of the border towns, offering a clear transition from one Central American identity to another.