Serhetabat (Turgundi) & Torghundi Border Crossing

A Crossing on the “Great Game” Frontier

Important Note for Travelers: This border crossing is located in an extremely volatile and dangerous region. The security situation is unpredictable. Travel to Afghanistan is extremely dangerous and strongly discouraged. This guide is provided for historical and informational purposes only.

The border crossing connecting the Turkmen town of Serhetabat with Torghundi in Afghanistan is a journey into the heart of a historic and strategic frontier. This is not just a border; it is a major road and rail link that has been a key strategic prize for centuries, a gateway on the ancient route from Persia to India. To cross here is to travel a path that was a focal point of the “Great Game,” the 19th-century rivalry between the British and Russian Empires for control of Central Asia. Today, it is a vital commercial and humanitarian lifeline for western Afghanistan, a passage through a landscape of semi-arid plains and a complex, often violent, history.

Operational Details

This checkpoint connects Turkmenistan’s Mary Province with Afghanistan’s Herat Province. It is a major international crossing for both road and rail traffic. The crossing is a critical artery for almost all of Afghanistan’s trade with Central Asia via Turkmenistan. It is the main entry point for fuel, food, and other goods coming from the north to the major city of Herat. The facility is large and heavily secured on both sides. Its operational status is a barometer of the relationship between the Taliban government in Afghanistan and the highly cautious, neutral government of Turkmenistan.

A History of a Strategic Frontier

The history of this crossing is the history of the struggle for Central Asia. The nearby Panjdeh oasis was the site of a major incident in 1885, when Russian forces clashed with Afghan troops, nearly bringing Britain and Russia to war. The town on the Turkmen side was founded as a Russian military outpost called Kushka and was the southernmost point of both the Russian Empire and the Soviet Union. The railway was built by the Russians for strategic military purposes. During the Soviet-Afghan War, it was a major supply route. In the post-Soviet era, it has become a vital commercial link, part of the new “Lapis Lazuli” transit corridor designed to connect Afghanistan to Europe via Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Turkey.

The Border Crossing Procedure

The border crossing procedure is an extremely rigorous and meticulous process, reflecting the extreme security situation. You will need a valid passport and valid visas for both countries, which must be obtained well in advance. The checks by both Afghan and Turkmen authorities are intense. The Turkmen side, in particular, is known for its extremely thorough customs and security inspections. Be prepared for a very long and slow process, with detailed questioning and searches of all your belongings. The railway crossing involves a similar, lengthy procedure for freight.

The Surrounding Region: Turkmenistan Side

On the Turkmen side, the crossing is in the town of Serhetabat (formerly Kushka). The area is part of the vast Karakum Desert. The main point of interest in the wider region is the magnificent ruins of ancient Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which is a few hours’ drive away. Merv was one of the most important and populous cities in the world during the Islamic Golden Age. The regional capital, Mary, is the main hub for visiting the site.

The Surrounding Region: Afghanistan Side

On the Afghan side, the crossing is in the town of Torghundi. It is the gateway to the magnificent and historic city of Herat, the cultural capital of Afghanistan. Herat is famous for its stunning Friday Mosque, its ancient citadel, the magnificent mausoleum of the Gowhar Shad, and its tradition of poetry and miniature painting. The city was a major center on the Silk Road and has some of the most beautiful Islamic architecture in the world. However, the security situation in the region is extremely volatile.

Practical Travel Information

Travel on this route is not possible for independent tourists. The entire region is a high-risk security zone. The official currencies are the Turkmen Manat (TMT) in Turkmenistan and the Afghan Afghani (AFN) in Afghanistan. Any travel would have to be part of an official, heavily guarded convoy. The risks of kidnapping, IEDs, and terrorist attacks are extremely high on the Afghan side.

Final Considerations

The Serhetabat–Torghundi border crossing is a journey across a frontier of immense historical and strategic importance. It is a place where the legacies of the Great Game, the Soviet empire, and the modern conflicts in Afghanistan converge. It is a vital economic artery that operates under the constant shadow of instability. It is a border that is not for the traveler, but for the soldier, the aid worker, the trader, and the people who depend on it for their survival. It is a true frontier, a gateway to the beautiful but deeply troubled land of western Afghanistan.